Faux Wood Workshop

For some people, even the intricate detail and realism of our polyurethane-molded faux wood beams is not enough.

They’re the customers we created our reclaimed wood beams for – but why choose reclaimed over new wood?

Here are some top reasons:

• They’re more affordable. Our reclaimed real wood beams are sourced from authentic salvaged wood from turn-of-the-century American buildings. Because a single authentic beam can be used to make several of our reclaimed wood box beams, they are considerably more cost-effective.
• They’re easier to install. Solid timber beams can weigh over 400lbs. By contrast, our reclaimed wood beams often weigh in at less than 50lbs. That makes a big difference – installing them doesn’t require any special equipment, and you don’t need to reinforce your ceiling as you might with a solid, timber ceiling beam.
• They’re more practical. Our reclaimed wood beams are built as a u-shape or 4-sided box, which means you can run wires and pipes inside them. That gives enormous flexibility in installation, allowing you to really capture a period look and feel by hiding modern wiring and piping.
• They’re adaptable. Because you can run wires invisibly through our reclaimed beams, an entire host of installation options open up that wouldn’t with a solid real wood beam: How about recessed lights, for example? You can also order the beams closed in on all four sides, which means you can make some exciting tresses with them.
• They’re authentic. The final reason why reclaimed beams are a great choice is because they don’t just look real – they are real. Although our faux wood beams are practically indistinguishable from the real thing once installed, our reclaimed beams are the real thing. Nothing looks better – not even solid timber beams.

It goes without saying that faux beams add a warm woody glow to your room. But they can also help add the glow of real light.

The hollow part of the beam is a great place to hide electric wires and route them to light fixtures mounted inside or on top. The three photos show three different ways of lighting up your beams.

Hiding uplights inside the hollow of the beam

The first photo shows suspended beams (attached only at their ends) with lights inside the hollow part, casting indirect light up at the ceiling. These could be fluorescent strips, rope lights, track lights — whatever gives the effect you want.

These beams are short and hefty, so they’re able to bear the weight of the light fixtures without additional support.

Mounting tracklights along the beam top

The second photo shows exposed tracklights along the top of a suspended beam. This is a much longer suspended beam than in the first photo, and it’s supported by doubled 2x6s inside the beam. (Our website explains how to install a long suspended beam.)

The tracklights, then, mount to the 2x6s — not to the beam itself. Because of this, you don’t need to worry about the weight or size of the fixtures.

Installing recessed lights in the beam bottom

The third photo shows recessed lights in the bottom of attached beams. You install them just as you would in a plaster or drywall ceiling. Our website gives detailed instructions for installing recessed lights .

Of course, you have to choose fixtures small enough to fit in the hollow part of the beam. And they must be rated “IC” for direct contact with insulation.

In this case the beam itself carries the weight of the fixtures, so it’s important to attach the beam securely to the ceiling. Be sure to use construction adhesive along the top edges — which also prevents stray light from escaping at the beam/ceiling joint.

Yes, we love the “faux-ness” of it all. But we also love to build re-using timbers saved from old barns and buildings. Nothing beats the patina look that comes from wood that is actually 100 years old.

Where does all that character of reclaimed wood come from? Well, we have white pine from a peg and post barn in Minnesota. Or you could install a tamarack wood beam piece made by hand in the early- to mid-1800s from a Wisconsin barn. Classic milled beams are sturdy rock elm wood from near the Mississippi River.

All of the vintage, reclaimed beams are unique – so expect nail holes, distress marks, checking or peg holes. Each beam will have an individual look due to warp, twist, wane and inconsistency of material thickness. These reclaimed beams are left about 6” to 10” long intentionally for the finish carpenter to cut to length on site.

See all the varieties of reclaimed wood beams here.