Posts Tagged ‘faux beams’

4th November

Faux Beams Make History

Our faux beams are popular because they offer an easy and affordable way to add period character to even modern homes. But Mary and Adam, from New England, gave our timber beams the ultimate thumbs up when they used them in their beautiful historic home.

Faux wood planks on the wall perfectly mimic colonial building techniques

“We’ve spent 14 years restoring a small, 230 year old house in New England,” write Mary and Adam Spencer, enclosing pictures of their stunning property. “I’m proud to say our restoration has even been featured in national magazines and books.”

“We’re fortunate enough to have the original hand hewn beams exposed in two of the rooms. We love the warm look of them, and really wanted some elsewhere in our home. Unfortunately cost and structural issues made getting solid wooden beams installed impractical.”

Mary and Adam found the answer on FauxWoodBeams.com.

“We recently ordered 3 of your long faux timber beams for the room, as well as some of the timber faux wood planks and corbels.”

“We used the corbels up against our real wood beams in the 4 corners of our bedroom, and installed the faux wood planks diagonally on the walls. The corbels exactly matched our original beams, and the timber planks instantly created the early, timber-framed cottage look we wanted!”

“In the dining room, we followed your installation instructions, and putting up the faux beams and timbers was easy. We are so thrilled with the results.”

Faux wood beams and faux wood corbels blend seamlessly with the existing, historic wood

What’s so impressive aren’t just the results – which you can see from these before and after pictures. It’s the fact that faux wood blended so seamlessly with the real thing; even in a house as historically significant as this one.

That’s an observation Mary and Adam have made, too. “We have a bed dated 1686, and you will see in our ‘after’ photos that it looks now as if it is in an original room of the period.”

“We are very picky about what we do in the house, and choose all our products with care. We’re ” The greatest vote of confidence they could give us? “We’ve ordered more timber planks for the walls in the living room – and we have three friends we’ve told about your company, and they plan to order as well!”

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11th May

New and Original Faux Ceiling Beams

When Michel White, from British Columbia, decided to embark on his new home construction, he knew right from the beginning that it would require the use of faux wood ceiling beams.

Built overlooking the Sunshine Coast, Michel’s home is nothing short of a contradiction – built using the latest materials and techniques, but designed to resemble more traditional homes built decades – or even centuries – earlier.

Ceiling beams made out of faux wood

Period fixtures compliment the Faux Ceiling Beams

That theme is most evident inside – where hardwood floors and enormous windows combine to give a real “country manor” air to the property. It’s an ambiance matched by period-style furniture and medieval collectables hanging from the wall.

Very clear is that a home like this would look completely out of place without the solidity of wooden beams hanging from the ceiling. This is presumably why Michel ordered them before the first bricks had even been laid.

“The beams arrived on time for our new house construction,” Michel wrote, when he sent us pictures of his faux Timber Ceiling Beams after they were mounted. “They were installed in one day and the effect is stunning.”

We don’t disagree – and think that Michel’s done an equally stunning job making sure that these brand-new beams look like they’ve hung from the ceiling for a century or more.

That authenticity is what Michel admits he was going for. He seems to take a lot of pride in admitting: “None of our friends believe that they are not real wood.” You can’t blame his friends, either. His Timber Ceiling Beams are intricately molded from authentic, hand-hewn timbers – and Michel went a step further by perfectly staining them to match the décor. It’s this extra touch which makes the beams so difficult to pick out as “not the real thing.”

Ceiling design ideas using faux ceiling beams

Although built recently, faux wood beams make Michael's property appear much older and more venerable.

Just like with every other aspect of his homemaking, Michel completed the faux wood illusion with a little accessorizing. If you examine the photographs, you’ll see that one of the reasons these Timber Ceiling Beams look so authentic is that they’re all accessorized with a pair of color-matched Timber Corbels.

That look mimics how older buildings would have had similar beam supports sticking out of the wall; poking through the plaster that traditionally covered timber framed interior walls.

Michel’s use of our faux wood products is incredibly impressive because it shows real vision on his part. Even before his stunning new home construction was completed, he’d worked out how to use modern design components to mimic traditional construction techniques. The result is brand new home that looks absolutely traditional and original.

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11th April

Wood Truss Design With Faux Beams

Kevin and Cyndi loved their two-story cabin from the moment they bought it – with its stunning view of unspoiled national forestland and tall peaked ceiling. But despite the stunning location and architecture, Kevin thought there was room for improvement.

Wood Truss Design with Faux Ceiling Beams

Kevin's ceiling was a towering 22ft tall. This is why faux beams, often weighing less than 20lbs, are so practical to install.

“The family room has a 22ft peaked ceiling,” Kevin explained, “so my goal was to fill in this dead-space, as well as continue the wood and rock theme that we used throughout the cabin.”

Kevin’s solution was to build a wood truss, which would fill in the dead space and add some character and shape to the peaked ceiling. The sheer scale of the project, however, immediately presented challenges.

“The biggest issue was the height of the ceiling,” Kevin explains. “At 22 ft, it was almost impossible to even take measurements up there. Plus the walls are made of drywall, which is attached to studs.”

Given the awkward positioning, and the way the ceiling was designed, using real wood beams to build the truss seemed impossible.

But Kevin proved that impossibility is a limit we often set ourselves – and so he still managed to get exactly the look he wanted by scoping out the use of faux beams instead.

Installing recessed lights into a faux ceiling beam

Installing recessed lights in faux wood beams is easy and practical.

“I spoke with Jeff at www.FauxWoodBeams.com and he was able to discern exactly what I wanted to do very quickly with some sketches. Using those, he was able to efficiently reduce the cost of my project.”

In addition to the dramatically reduced cost and increased practicality of using faux beams rather than real timber, Kevin quickly realized another advantage in using faux wood over the real thing.

“I was also in desperate need to add more light sources to the room since there were no ceiling lights installed and the room was dark, even with floor lamps on.” The u-shape of hollow faux wood beams meant they’re perfect for running wire invisibly through, and Kevin was able to install recessed lighting to bring a little brightness to the family room.

“I drilled 4 holes in each beam to attach the recessed lights. They simply clipped in – although it was handy to have access from the top when they didn’t seat perfectly. I wired all of these together with twist caps and attached and checked the wiring.”

Only one thing went wrong. “One wrong set of bulbs sent me back to Home Depot,” Kevin admits, “where they by now knew me on a first name basis!”

Wood truss built with faux beams

The end results of Kevin's wood truss design were nothing short of spectacular.

What was especially impressive about this project was that Kevin managed to do the entire thing practically by himself (although he admits “my lovely wife was a trooper and held up beams while I drilled – the dog barking and my little daughter wandering around below us, oblivious to the imminent danger above!)

He also illustrated the amazing potential of faux ceiling beams in his truss design project. They look stunning used as roof beams, but can easily be adapted for even more ambitious projects – just like Kevin’s.

The end result looks stunning – as if the wood truss had been in place almost as long as the family room’s wooden stairs. This is because Kevin ordered his faux beams unfinished, and stained them to match the existing stairs.

You can read a fuller account of Kevin’s remarkable truss building project on our wood truss design page; and if you start on a similar endeavor, would love to hear about it and see pictures of your project.

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24th July

Truss Story, Part 1

This project had its genesis from a two story cabin with a wall of windows facing a great view of unspoiled National Forest. It is dedicated to my wife Cyndi who decided we needed it, and my Dad, a master craftsman that unfortunately suddenly passed away right at the start of the project. I built it in hopes to make them both proud.

The family room has a 22ft peaked ceiling with a stairs on one side, a fire stove, a ceiling fan in the middle, and the walls are made of drywall which is attached attached to studs. As I did my planning, Jeff at FauxWoodBeams.com was able to discern what I wanted to do very quickly with some sketches and was able to efficiently reduce the cost of my project. I ordered the beams unfinished and planned to stain them to match the wood on the stairs.

Overall, the goal was to fill in this dead-space, as well as continue the wood and rock theme that we used throughout the cabin. I was also in desperate need to add more light sources to the room since there were no ceiling lights installed and the room was dark, even with floor lamps on.

The biggest issue was the height of the ceiling. At 22 ft, it was almost impossible to even take measurements up there. I had originally planned on using scaffolding, but because of the tight quarters, tall ceiling, cost of renting the equipment, and that I could only work on this project when we went to the cabin (which was about once a month), renting scaffolding was doubly difficult, so I decided against it. I looked at some large ladders and again after talking to Jeff, decided that the Little Giant 17 ft ladder would work. They aren’t cheap but do condense smaller and can contort in to different shapes.

I made my orders and waited. They showed up in long skinny boxes, well protected, but took the whole length of my garage. One other note, don’t judge the beam weight by the box weight. The boxes are heavy because of the protective packaging, the beams are relatively light (but gets heavier the higher you have to haul them!)

First, I watched the videos on the web site that Jeff had; they were very good and gave me a sense of what I had to do. I started with the main cross beam, I was sure where this went so I installed it first thinking that it would be easy. Unfortunately, it wasn’t. First, the ladder was very high and seemed rickety until I got used to it. Second, the U of the beam fit in to the peak of the roof. This meant that the little mounting boards (I used 2×4 pieces) had to be mounted at the peak. Clearly, they stretched over the gap at the peak, so I needed much longer screws and had to hunt around to find something besides drywall to drill in to. I used a stud detector and it helped identify where the wood was underneath the drywall, but it was very slow. I put blue painters tape wherever I found a stud , which helped me build a picture of where everything was under the drywall. I used a chalk line to try and mark this, but it was pretty useless. With only one ladder I had to install a hook at one end then move the ladder and chalk line up to pluck it. In the end, the chalk line wasn’t much help, as you could just follow the peak of the roof. I put another 2×4 block on top of the ones I installed up there so that there was enough depth for the beams to mount to. (This involved pre-drilling the boards as well.) By The Way – use a rechargeable drill. A corded drill working from these heights will inevitably get caught on something. Use a tool belt with lots of pockets as well, it comes in handy. After mounting all the 2×4 blocks, I had to drill the bolts that would hold cables. This was Jeff’s idea, and it works well. When you have a truss, the bottom horizontal piece may have too much weight to be held on the ends which can cause it to sag as well as not stay mounted. Jeff indicated to use a cable to hold it up there. This worked perfect and had some other benefits as well, such as holding the electrical wires when they are snaked between the beams. I installed large eyelet bolts and made sure they were very deeply installed in to the ceiling wood frame. I had originally hooked some light steel cable to these, but that quickly didn’t work. I could never get the cable to tie off, even with special crimp connections, so I had no faith that they could hold all the weight. I abandoned that idea and just stuck a light chain with closeable snap links. This was a real key to the whole thing working as you will see later.

I installed the first half of the top beam by mounting one of the black beam straps to

Installing faux ridge beam on ceiling

a ceiling 2×4 block of wood on the end. These come from FauxWoodBeams.com and look like iron. I propped the beams up outside and gave them a quick stain and cut it to fit. I had one mistaken beam strap sent to us that was the wrong size. I shipped it back and they took care of it. These straps fit pretty tight, but will mold over time. I recommend you put them on part way and let them sit for a day before sliding them the rest of the way on.

The beams are light enough that I could carry one (actually 1/2 length) up carefully and slide it in to the far side, then strap and attach it in the center strap that I previously mounted. The advantage of the strap in the center was that I needed room to steal

installed second half of faux ridge beam

power from the ceiling fan to run wires through all the other beams. Also, the beam doesn’t have to be full length (because it is hidden by the strap) which means that it doesn’t have to be cut perfect several times before installing. (You will quickly find that the roof isn’t exactly straight and neither is the ceiling.) After the first half was installed, the second half went easier, although there was a smoke detector in the way that I had to replace.

Check back next week for Part 2 of this truss story!

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23rd June

Helpful Tip Tuesday

Need some new ideas? some tips? The Installation section of our website has many guides that are full of tips and ideas that you may have never thought about. You may find some inspiration for a new project or even some tips and pointers for upcoming installations. Head over to our faux beams installation section of our site, or check out a few of these pick’s that you might find useful:

Installing Faux Beams As a Truss:

Installing a truss system can be a difficult project,we made this guide to help take you through all the steps of preparing your beams and ceiling to construct that perfect truss system that you always wanted.

Scribing a beam:

Rough, distressed beams can be a bit difficult to butt up against each other, unlike smooth flat beams. Here is a helpful step by step guide that will get those rough textured beams butted up against each other perfectly!

How to make beams look like knotty pine:

Have you ever wanted to get the knots on your faux beams to look like the ones authentic knotty pine wood? Check out this guide to learn how to stain your beams to achieve the knotty pine look.

 

Mounting a Chandelier or Hanging Light Fixture:

Thinking of how great it would be to have a Chandelier or other light fixture hanging from your faux beam? It can done in a few simple steps!


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17th March

Helpful Tip Tuesday – A Little Screwed

Square Drive ScrewAs you may already know, you install faux beams by first attaching several wood blocks securely to the ceiling or wall, and then attaching the beam to the blocks. The blocks are inside the hollow beam, so they’re completely hidden.

What’s not completely hidden are the screws you drive through the sides of the beam into the blocks. You have to countersink them a little into the beam and then fill the holes with matching caulk or wood putty. Or do you?

If you’re like me, the first impulse you have when you need to screw something in place is to grab for a box of drywall screws. They’re cheap and they’re handy. But hold on. Using finish screws instead can make hole-filling easier or even eliminate it.

Finish screws, or trim screws, are flathead screws with smaller heads than normal. Some have Phillips heads, but the ones with Robertson square-drive heads are even better. Square Drive HeadIt’s too easy to strip the smaller (#1) Phillips slots. If you don’t already have a square driver, you can pick one up where the screws are sold. Sometimes the box of screws includes a free driver bit.

Finish screws are also available in colors. If you can match the color of your beam closely enough, and the beam is high enough up that you can’t see the small screw heads from the floor, you might get away with not having to fill any holes.

If that little cheat won’t work, at least you’ll end up with smaller holes after you countersink the finish screws. Smaller holes are much quicker and easier to fill, and harder to see.

In this case, smaller is better.

 

Screw Against BeamCloseup of Screw Size

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10th March

Helpful Tip Tuesday – Practice, Practice, Practice

If one of the prefinished beams on our site suits your project to a T, you should definitely go ahead and order it. Staining a pile of unfinished beams is way down the list of things that most of us love to do. It’s messy, time-consuming, and (let’s face it) pretty boring.

Staining an Unfinished BeamBut no prefinished beam can fit everyone’s needs and plans. You might want something more distinctive than a traditional walnut or pine color. And some of our beams are only available unfinished. With all the effort and expense you’re putting into your project, you want the result to be right — including the exact color of your beams.

If you’ve done much staining, you know colors can be hit-or-miss. You know the color on the lid of the can or the chart at the hardware store can only give a general idea of how the finish will actually look. And it’ll look different on polyurethane than on pine or oak or maple.

Thank goodness for free samples!

In case you don’t know: You can order a sample of any beam we sell. Order as many as you want, because they end up being free. It’s true: When you decide what you want, and place your order for the actual beams, you can deduct from the beam order every penny you paid for the samples. (Well, unless you went overboard and paid more for the samples than the whole cost of the beam order.)

That means you can order several samples of different beam styles, try out different stains and techniques on them, and see what you’re going to get before you commit to the Big Order. Let the stain dry completely before you reach any conclusions. And be sure to choose and apply finishes according to the instructions on our web site.

Sure, it takes some time and some fussing. But the results are worth the effort.

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